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Baby Tiliqua gigas (Indonesian blue-tongued skink) (FTR2)

 

Tiliqua gigas(Indonesian blue-tongued skink) are cold blooded reptiles that need heat to function. Tiliqua gigas require a basking hotspot temperature of 30-32°C (86-90°F) with a gradient falling to the other side of the enclosure which can be allowed to reach room temperature or as low as 21-26°C (70-78°C) reaching the lowest during night drops.A common misconception is that Blue Tongued Skinks do not require UV, however this is utter presumption as there is no reason why they are exempt from the same care as other species. Thus UV and a full photoperiod are essential, as supplementation alone is dangerous via the risk of over or under-supplementing of vitamin D3. They can be provided UV ideally either 10-12% and either T8 or T5 however T5 is far more efficient, modern UV equipment being able to fully simulate wild UV index’ when set up correctly. This UV equipment should be fitted the same side as the basking area allowing a UV and photo gradient so the animal can escape it on the opposite side and under décor should it want to.

Humidity
These are tropical reptiles and thus their humidity should replicate that found around tropical Indonesia. Within the enclosure this should range between 60% and 90% humidity, allowing for spikes and falls. The enclosure can be sprayed daily to aid keeping this humidity high.

Water
They should be provided with constant access to fresh clean water via a bow or large tub of the owner’s choice which is changes daily and when soiled in, which they may often do. This water area can be made large enough to swim in, if space allows, however this is not necessary.

Substrate
Being tropical species, and very often burrowers, their substrate should replicate this. The substrate should allow burrowing for a large animal, and thus be ideally 0.15-0.17 meters (0.5-0.55 feet) deep, however it can be much deeper! The ideal substrate types include coir/coco fibre, peat, sterilized top soil, orchid bark and sphagnum moss. Mixes of these substrates work fantastic in attempting to replicate their wild environment. Dry substrates should not be used at all, including paper, aspen, or hay as these would inhibit humidity, natural behaviors and cause ill health such as dysecdysis, and behavioral issues.

Feeding
These skinks can have an incredibly large and varied diet, being omnivorous. Thus their provided diet should simulate this. A good captive system to use (which can be jigged about with slightly increased protein if desired for picky skinks) is 50% vegetables, 40% protein sources and 10% fruit. The fruit should not include citrus items, and can include blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, apple, and banana as well as many others. The vegetables can include a massive range including spring greens, bok choy, beet greens, kale, mustard greens and collard greens, this is easiest offered chopped up finely and added to the fruit and protein sources.

Protein sources can include a massive range of live food invertebrates which can be offered often, items such as frozen thawed mice and day old chicks can be offered but rarely. Whole egg and egg yolk is also a fantastic protein source which can be provided raw, boiled and scrambled (only the egg!). Some people insist that they can be fed a diet of only dog food, however it is illogical to provide an animal with such a varied diet with a single foodstuff which is formulated for an entirely different taxon, thus while this can be provided and is good for enticing the most picky skinks, it should not be provided often.
All meals should be supplemented lightly with calcium without D3 as UV is provided. If UV is not provided for whatever reason then D3 supplementation is required, however this situation is not advised due to the risks of over and under-supplementation and the ethical, biological and behavioral implications of not providing a reptile access to UV. Every other meal can be supplemented with reptile vitamins. A baby skink should be fed a meal of a couple teaspoons daily, moving to every other day at 3 months old, every three days from 6 months old, then allowing a change to a couple tablespoons of food once or split twice per week allowing small live food and fruit additions in between.
Blue tongues are very susceptible to obesity, thus they should be monitored, avoid overfeeding them! They have an extremely low metabolism, once per week can be enough for an adult.

Cleaning
As with general reptile husbandry, these should be spot cleaned daily to every few days, and fully cleaned out monthly to bi-monthly, depending on the condition and size of the enclosure. If kept bioactive, cleaning can be reduced to monthly spot cleaning and no full changes, however this takes a lot of consideration, and is not necessary.

A sales receipt and care sheet will be included when purchasing your Lizard with all the information you need to care for it. We are also on hand everyday for help and advice if you need itand we also care for your animal in store when your are on holiday (ask about our pet boarding sevice

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